Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
